Sewing-machine.



J. LEATHEM.

SEWING- MACHINE.

- APPLICATION FILED FEB. 4, 190a. 1,01 7,426. Patented Feb. 13, 1912.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

In ventor J. LEATHBMI SEWING MACHINE. APPL IOATION FILED PEBA, 1908.

Patented Feb. 13, 1912.

' 4 SHEETSSHEET 3.

Z in into): v Atty m' Q COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH 60., WASHINGTON, u. c.

J. LEATHEM. SEWING MACHINE. APILIOATION FILED r2124, 190s.

4 SHEETSSHEET 4.

Patented Feb. 13,1912.

llllll 55 hi: Inv ntor' 0., WASHINGTON D c UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES LEATHEM, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO HERMANN, AUKAM & 00., OF

NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

SEWING-MACHINE.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it lmown that I, JAMES LEATHEM, a citizen of the United States,residing at New York city, in the county of Richmond and State of NewYork, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inSewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full,clear, and exact description of the same, such as will enable othersskilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to sewing machines, more particularly to theneedle motions for such machines, and the objects of the invention areto improve the construction of such machines and increase theirefficiency of operation.

Other objects of the invention are to provide a needle motion for a hemstitching machine, which will obviate feeding the material back andforth.

While the invention is to be described with particular reference to ahem stitching machine, and to the details of construction, it is not tobe understood as to be limited thereto, as many and various changes maybe made, and the same may be embodied in widely varying forms withoutlimiting the invention to the construction shown and described.

According to my invention the general structure of a sewing machine isnot affected, the machine comprising, as is usual, a bed plate, anoverhanging arm, a needle bar mounted to reciprocate up and down in theend of this arm, means for so reciprocating it, and the usual needleplate, feed mechanism, etc. In hem-stitching it is de sired that twostitches be placed off the hem fold and one on. One means of doing thisis to provide the needle bar with a vibrating needle carrier which isadapted to be operated in connection with a feeding mechanism capable ofimparting two forward movements to the material alternating with onebackward movement, the needle being kept perpendicular to place the twostitches off the hem fold and inclined by suitable vibrating mechanismto place one stitch on the hem fold. Instead of so doing, and accordingto the present invention the needle is actuated so as to permit of thematerial being fed only forward, and not backward and forward as iscustomary in what are called return feed machines.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed February 4, 1908.

Patented Feb. 13, 1912.

Serial No. 414,159.

According to the present invention the needle is moimted in a holder, ona rotary shaft, carried by the needle bar in its reciprocations, theneedle being eccentric to the axis of rotation of the shaft, means beingprovided for rotating said shaft intermittently, a part of a revolutioneach time the needle bar ascends. customarily, the said shaft rotatesone third of a revolution during each rise of the needle bar, the holesmade by the needle in the material being, therefore, arranged in atriangle, two 011' the hem fold and one on.

For the methodof stitching which I pre fer, it is desirable that eachset of needle holes shall not be at the corners of an equilateraltriangle, as may be produced by a needle mounted eccentrically on anintermittently-rotating shaft, as described, but shall be at the cornersof what is, actually or approximately, a right angled triangle, so thathalf of the stitches crossing the line of the hem-fold shall cross atright angles. To this end the needle is not only eccentrically mountedin relation to the shaft but is also eccentrically mounted in relationto the needle holder. Therefore I do not mount the needle directly onsaid intermittently rotating shaft, but upon a needle holder, the motionof which is modified with reference to that of the shaft by cammechanism hereinafter described.

Suitable means are provided for feeding the material forward after acomplete revolution of the shaft, so that the needle will on its secondentrance into the material, to place the second stitch off the hem fold,enter the hole made by the needle in the first stitch off the hem fold,made in the preceding series of stitches.

The accompanying drawings illustrate one form of hem-stitching mechanismsuch as above described.

In said drawings: Figure 1 is a side elevation with parts broken away ofa machine showing one embodiment of my invention; Fig. 2 is a bottomview of the machine showing the feeding mechanism; Fig. 3 is an end viewwith a portion of the bed plate in cross section; Fig. 4 is a detail endView of the head of the machine with the face plate removed showing theneedle bar in its uppermost position; Fig. 5 is a detail View similar toFig. 4 with parts broken away showing the needle bar in its lowestposition; Fig. 6 is a detail view of a part of the feeding mechanism;Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail view, partly in section and with partsbroken away of the needle bar, showing the needle in a descendingposition to place the first stitch off the hem; Fig. 8 is a view similarto Fig. 7 with the needle in a descending position to place the secondstitch off the hem; Fig. 9 is a view similar to Figs. 7 and 8 with theneedle in a descending position to place the first stitcl'i on the hem;Figs. 10, 11 and 12 are detail views of a portion of the material to behemmed showing respectively the holes made by the needle in itsdifferent downward movements as shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9; Figs. 13, letand 15 are respectively, cross sectional views on the lines 18-13, 1 114 and 15-15 of Figs. 7, 8 and 9 showing the relative positions of thecams in relation to the hem of the material; Fig. 16 is a detailsectional view on the line 1616 of Fig. 7; Fig. 17 is a detail sectionalview on the line 1717 of Fig. 7 Fig. 18 is a detail sectional view onthe line 181S of Fig. 7; Fig. 19 is a detail view of a piece of materialshowing a series of stitches made by the machine; Fig. 20 is a detailview of the end of the needle bar embodying an alternative form, theneedle being in position to place the first stitch off the hem; Fig. 21is a detail view similar to Fig. 20, the needle being in position toplace the second stitch off the hem; F igs.-22 and 23 are detail viewsof a portion of the material showing respectively the holes made by theneedle in its different downward movements as shown in Figs. 20 and 21;Fig. 24 is a detail perspective view of the cylindrical block; Fig. 25is a detail perspective View of the actuating cam.

Referring to the drawings A designates the bed plate, B the overhangingarm in which is mounted the needle bar actuating shaft C, to the end ofwhich is secured the hub D, provided with the peripheral cam slot Ewhich actuates the take-up lever F, one end of which extends through theslot G in the face plate H which is secured to the head J.

The needle bar 1 is mounted in the head J, and is reciprocated by meansof a link 2, one end of which is pivoted to the hub D, and the other endof which is pivoted to the collar 3 secured to the needle bar 1. Theneedle bar 1 is made hollow throughout its length so as to contain theactuating shaft 4, the upper end of which extends a short distance abovethe upper end of the needle bar 1, and is secured to a collar 5, whichbears upon the top of the needle bar 1, said collar being provided witha feather 6, which is arranged to engage a vertical groove 7 on theinner side of a guide sleeve 8, which, with the actuatingshaft 4, isadapted to rotate about the axis of the needle bar 1, which latter isheld against rotation by means of the collar 3 secured to the link 2,before described. The actuating shaft 4 is provided near its lower endwith a circular shoulder 9, which fits into a corresponding recess inthe needle bar 1, so that the actuating shaft 4 is held from movingvertically in relation to the needle bar 1 by means of the collar 5 atone end, and the shoulder '9 at the other end, but at the same time maybe rotated.

The guide sleeve 8 is rotatably mounted in a suitable bearing 10, on thehead J of the machine, and is held in position by means of cap 11,secured to the top of the sleeve, which bears upon the top of thebearing 10, and a flange or collar 12, also secured to the guide sleeve8, which bears against the bottom of the bearing 10.

Rotatably mounted upon the lower portion of the guide sleeve 8 is anactuating sleeve 13, which is provided on the inside with three equallyspaced vertical grooves 14, which are adapted to successively engage ashort feather 15 situated on the guide sleeve 8, a short distance belowthe collar 12. The actuating sleeve 13 is provided with a series ofholes 151, which are adapted to be engaged by the pins 16, of asegmental rack 17, secured to the link 2, by means of which theactuating sleeve 13 is oscillated and reciprocated as the hub D rotates.The segmental rack 17 is curved on the arc of a circle whose center isthe point where the link 2 is pivoted to the collar 3, and is at such adistance above said center that one of the three grooves 1 1 will engagethe feather 15 on the guide sleeve 8, every time the hub D rotates, andthus turn the actuating sleeve 13, the guide sleeve 8 and the actuatingshaft 4 one third of a revolution. The actuating sleeve 13 is of such alength that it will not come in contact with the head of the machinewhen the link 2 has moved said sleeve to its highest position. Thebottom of the actuating sleeve 13 preferably rests upon the top of thecollar 3 and is preferably contracted near the bottom so as to form asuitable bearing surface around the needle bar. The guide sleeve 8 is ofsuch length as A not to interfere with the reciprocation of theactuating sleeve 13 or the collar 3. The feather 15 is so located on theguide sleeve 8 that the grooves 14- are adapted to successively engagethe same when the pivot point I guide sleeve 8 only a third of arevolution, the grooves 14 are made slightly wider than the feather 15,so that while a groove 14 passes over the lower end of the feather 15when the link is passing upward from its extreme left hand position, itdoes not come in actual contact with the feather and turn the guidesleeve 8 until the groove 14 has passed upward for a short distance, atwhich point the groove 14, which has been rotated but a slight distance,comes into actual engagement with the feather 15 and turns the guidesleeve 8 a third of a revolution before the groove 14 leaves the samewhen the link 2 has reached its extreme right hand position. The groove14 is also made wider than the feather 15 so as to insure theregistering of the groove with the feather.

After the link 2 has reached its extreme right hand position, and theactuating shaft 4 has been rotated a third of a revolution, the needlebar 1 together with the actuating shaft 4 and the actuating sleeve 13,is moved to its extreme downward position and then up again until thepivot point of the link 2 on the hub D has again reached its extremeleft hand position, at which point the next successive groove 14 isadapted to pass over the feather 15 so as to turn the guide sleeve 8,which actuates the actuating shaft 4, another third of a revolution. Inthis manner the actuating shaft 4 makes one complete revolution to everythree revolutions of the hub D. To prevent the guide sleeve 8 fromturning after a groove 14 of the actuating sleeve has turned theactuating shaft 4 a third of a revolution, and until the next succeedinggroove 14 has inclosed the feather 15, a flat spring 18, secured tovthehead J, preferably is provided, which is adapted to successively engagethree flat notches 19 on the cap 11, and hold the guide sleeve 8 and theactuating shaft 4 from rotating, until one of the grooves 14 of theactuating sleeve 13 again engages the feather 15; whereupon the spring18 is pressed outward and engages the adjacent notch 19 and againretains the guide sleeve 8 and the actuating shaft 4 in position untilthe same are again operated by the actuating sleeve 13.

In the lower end of the actuating shaft 4 is preferably provided acylindrical recess 20 in which is adjustably mounted a cylindrical block21 by means of a set screw 22. The cylindrical block 21 is provided withan eccentric bearing 23 in which is ournaled a stud 24, secured to anactuating cam 25, the stud 24 being rotatably secured in the bearing 23by suitable means such as a screw 26, the head of which engages the topof the cylindrical block 21. The bottom of the cylindrical block 21 ispreferably provided with a flange 27, adapted to bear against the bottomof the actuating shaft 4.

The actuating cam 25 is provided with two depending lugs 28 which arespaced apart and adapted to support a needle holder 29 which ispreferably pivoted to the lugs 28 by means of a pivot pin 30. The needleholder 29 is provided with a hole 30 in which the upper end of theneedle 31 is secured by means of a suitable set screw 32. The needle 31is set eccentrically to the actuating shaft 4 and also eccentrically tothe stud 24 of the actuating cam 25. The actuating cam 25 is adapted tooscillate about a pin 33 in the needle bar 1 which engages a slot'34 insaid actuating cam.

The throw of the needle 31 is regulated by the distance the actuatingcam 25 is 'set off the center of the actuating shaft 4 and is furtherregulated by the distance the needle is set off the center of theactuating cam 25 and also by the position of the pin 33. If the needle31 were set in the needle holder 29 so as to be in line with the centerof the actuating cam 25, it would be found that the needle would in itsthree successive movements into the material make three stitches whichwould be equally spaced apart, so as to form an equilateral triangle,but in order to space the stitches at unequal distances apart, theneedle is set in the needle holder 29 so as to be off the center of theactuating cam 25, which will permit the needle in its three successivemovements into the material to space the stitches at unequal distancesapart, so as to form a triangle the sides of which are of differentlengths, depending upon the distance the needle is set off the center ofthe actuating cam. The relation of the three stitches to each other isalso varied by the position of the pin 33 and its relation to theactuating cam 25, the throw of which can be varied in relation to thepin- 33 by turning the needle bar 1 which is accomplished by looseningthe collar 3. As shown in the drawings, the needle is set at a greaterdistance off the center of the actuating cam 25 than'the actuating camis set off the center of the actuating shaft 4. In this manner theneedle can be adjusted to place two stitches off the hem fold and oneon, the stitches off the hem being in line with each other while thestitch in the hem is preferably at right angles to one of the stitchesmade 011' the hem. The relative position of the needle in its threeconsecutive positions before entering the material is shown in Figs. 7,8 and 9, below each of which is shown in Figs. 10, 11 and 12, thematerial 35 with the corresponding holes made by the needle which aremarked respectively, a, b and 0. Below Figs. 10, 11 and 12, are Figs.13, 14 and 15 which are views in cross section on the lines 1313; 1414and 1515 respectively of Figs. 7 8 and 9, showing the relative positionof the actuating cam 25 in its three successive positions.

The number of stitches to the inch or the distance between the holes aand b can be regulated by turning needle bar 1 as before described or bychanging the position of the pin 33 on the end of the needle bar 1,additional holes 36 being provided for this purpose. In this manner thedistance between the holes .7) and 0 can also be varied. In case it isdesired to produce a fewer number of stitches to the inch, by increasingthe distance between the holes a and b, the needle holder 29 is providedwith an outwardly eX- tending arm 37, the top of which is provided witha cam surface 38 adapted to engage the end of the pin 33, which in suchcase extends below the bottom of the slot 34 for that purpose.

It will be seen by referring to Fig. 20 that the cam surface 38 is cutaway so as to not engage the pin 33 when the needle is in position toplace the first stitch off the hem, but when the needle moved forward bymeans of the actuating cam 25 to place the second stitch off the hem, asshown in Fig. 21, the needle is given an additional movement forward bythe action of the pin 33 on the cam surface 38, which causes theneedleholder 29 to turn on the pivot pin 36 that the needle will enterthe material in advance of where it would otherwise enter. lVhen theactuating cam 25 has moved the needle back to its third'position toplace the stitch on the hem the cam surface 38 will not en gage the pin33, as the cut away portion of the cam surface 38 will be inapproximately the same position as that shown in Fig. 20 for the firstposition of the needle. The needle holder 29 is held in normal positionby means of a spring 39 in a recess 40 in the needle holder and adaptedto bear against the bottom of the actuating cam 25.

The additional. throw of the needle can be varied by adjusting theposition of the pin 33 so'that the same will extend to a greater or lessdistance below the bottom of the slot 34, or by varying the shape of thecam surface 38. The throw of the needle can also be adjusted to vary thenumber of stitches to the inch by inserting different cylindrical blocks21, in which the bearing 21 is set more or less off the center of theactuating shaft 4. Different needle holders 29 may also be provided inwhich the needle may be inserted at various distances off the center ofthe actuating cam 25.

When the movements of the needle are regulated as above described, itwill be seen that the material remains stationary during the threesuccessive reciprocations of the needle and is fed forward only afterthe needle has entered the hem and it is necessary to repeat thesuccession of stitches; the material in each instance being fed forwarda distance equal to the distance between the holes a and b, so that theneedle will in its second downward movement to place the second stitchoff the hem, enter the hole 0; of the preceding series of stitches,making a series of stitches as shown in Fig. 19.

A piercer 45 is provided which is secured to needle bar 1 in one of theholes 36, such piercer being adapted to puncture the ma terial off thehem fold at every descent of the needle.

Any suitable means for feeding the material may be employed, although inthe present instance it is constructed as follows: The needle baractuating shaft C has, it will be supposed, two cranks, which actuatelike connecting rods 50 and 51, engaging respectively two cranks on theunder shaft 52, provided at its front end with a gear 53 which mesheswith a gear 54, secured to one end of a short shaft 55, near the middleof which is secured abeveled gear 56, which meshes with a gear 571,secured to a shaft 57 the rotation of which operates a suitable shuttle.Secured near the center of the under shaft 52 is a small gear 58 whichmeshes with a large gear 59 secured to a shaft 60. The gear 59 isrotated once for each three rotations of the shaft 52 and has connectedto or forming part of it a cam 61 (as shown in Fig. 6), said cam havinga cam groove 62,, in which enters a stud 63 which is secured to an arm64, secured to one end of a short shaft 65 the other end of which issecured to a feed rocker 66, provided with a groove 67 in which enters ashoe or block 68 secured to one end of a lever 69, the other end ofwhich is secured to an arm 70 which actuates the rock shaft 71. Securedto the rock shaft 71 is an arm 72 provided with a stud 73 which engagesthe rear end of a feed dog 74 which is adapted to engage the under sideof and move the material. The lever 69 has pivoted to it the lower end alink 75, by which the lever 69 may be raised or lowered to vary thelength of the stitch. The nearer the block 68 is to the center ofoscillation of the shaft 65, the shorter the stitch. The shaft 60 hassecured to its other end a cam 76 which operates an arm 77 secured toone end of a rock shaft 78 the other end of which is provided with anarm 79 which engages the forward end of the feed dog 74. It will beobvious that the feeding device may be so actuated that the same willfeed the material forward once to every three revolutions of the needlebar actuating shaft.

lVhat I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. A stitchforming mechanism for sewing machines comprising a reciprocating needlebar, an actuating shaft rotatably mounted therein, a guide sleeve, andan actuating sleeve connected to said actuating shaft, and anoscillating rack arranged to operate the same for rotating saidactuating shaft a part of a revolution for every reciprocation of theneedle bar.

2. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising areciprocating needle bar, an actuating shaft rotatably mounted therein,a guide sleeve, and an actuating sleeve connected to said actuatingshaft, an oscillating rackarranged to operate the same for rotating saidactuating shaft a part of a revolution for every reciprocation of theneedle bar, and a needle holder eccentrically mounted on said actuatingshaft.

3. A stitch forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle bar, anintermittently rotatable shaft therein, a needle holder eccentricallymounted on said shaft and arranged to produce a series of at least threestitches of unequal length one for each reciprocation of the needle bar,means for holding the material stationary until the series of stitchesare completed, and means for feeding the material after the series ofstitches have been produced.

4. Stitch forming mechanism comprising needle actuating means arrangedto form three stitches of unequal length together forming a right angledtriangle within a cycle of operations, and means for holding the workstationary in carrying out such cycle, and means for feeding the work atthe conclusion of the cycle.

5. A stitch forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle bar, anactuating shaft therein, means for reciprocating said needle bar andsaid actuating shaft, means for rotating said actuating shaft a third ofa revolution during a part of each reciprocation, an actuating cameccentrically mounted on said actuating shaft, a needle holder mountedon said actuating cam eccentrically to said actuating shaft and eccentrically to said actuating cam, means for regulating the movements ofsaid actuating cam to. form a series of three unequally spaced stitches,and means for feeding the material forward after each series stitches.

6. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder pivotallyconnected to said needle bar and arranged to be reciprocated thereby, arotatable shaft and means operated thereby arranged to oscillate saidneedle holder, and means for rotating said shaft intermittently,arranged to rotate same through complete rotations, and means forregulating the oscillations of said needle holder.

7. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder pivotallyconnected to said needle bar and arranged to be reciprocated thereby,and means for oscillating said needle holder com prising a shaft carriedby the needle bar and means for rotating the same through completerotations, and means for regulating the oscillations of said needleholder.

8. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder pivotallyconnected to said needle bar and arranged to be reciprocated thereby,and means for oscillating said needle holder comprising a shaft mountedin and carried. by the needle bar and means for rotating the samethrough complete rotations, and means for regulating the oscillations ofsaid needle holder.

9. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder arranged to bereciprocated thereby, a rotatable shaft and means operated therebyarranged to oscillate said needle holder and meansrfor rotating saidshaft intermittently, and a fixed member secured to said needle bar andhaving a sliding connection with said needle holder for regulating themovements thereof.

10. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder ary ranged to bereciprocated thereby, means for oscillating said needle holdercomprising a shaft carried by the needle bar and means for rotating thesame through complete rotations, and a fixed member secured to saidneedle bar and having a sliding connection with said needle holdenforregulating the movements thereof.

11. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a .reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder arcanged to bereciprocated thereby, means for oscillating said needle holdercomprising a shaft mounted in and carried by the needle bar, and meansfor rotating the same through complete rotations, and a fixed membersecured to said needle bar and having a sliding connection with saidneedle holder for regulating the movements thereof.

12. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder arranged to bereciprocated thereby, means for oscillating said needle holder, saidholder arranged to hold a needle eccentrically with respect to its axisof oscillation, and a fixed member secured to said needle bar having asliding connection with said needle holder whereby the needle holder isgiven an oscillatory movement.

' 13. A stitch forming mechanism for sew ing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder arranged to bereciprocated thereby, a rotatable shaft and means operated therebyarranged to oscillate said needlejholder, and

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means for rotating said shaft intermittently arranged to rotate samethrough complete rotations, and an adjustably mounted fixed membersecured to said needle bar and having a sliding connection with saidneedle holder for regulating the movements thereof.

14;. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder arranged to bereciprocated thereby, and means for oscillating said needle holdercomprising a shaft. carried by the needle bar and means for rotating thesame through complete rotations, and an adjustably mounted fixed membersecured to said needle bar and having a sliding connection With saidneedle holder for regulating the movements thereof.

15. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder arranged to bereciprocated thereby, and means for oscillating said needle holdercomprising a shaft mounted in and carried by the needle bar and meansfor rotating the same through complete rotations, and an adjustablymounted fixed member secured to said needle bar and having a slidingconnection With said needle holder for regulating the movements thereof.

16. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder arranged to bereciprocated thereby, and means for oscillating said needle holder, saidholder arranged to hold a needle eccentrically With respect to its axisof oscillation, and an adjustably mounted fixed member secured to saidneedle bar and having a sliding connection with said needle holder forregulating the movements thereof.

17. A stitch forming mechanism for se ing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder and an actuatingcam arranged to be reciprocated thereby, a rotatable shaft and meansoperated thereby arranged to oscillate said needle holder, and means forrotating said shaft intermittently, arranged to rotate same throughcomplete rotations, and a pin secured to said needle bar and Working ina slot of said actuating cam for regulating the movements of said needleholder.

18. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder and an actuatingcam arranged to be reciprocated thereby, and means for oscillating saidneedle holder and said actuating cam comprising a shaft carried by theneedle bar and means for rotating the same through complete rotations,and a pin secured to said needle bar and Working in a slot of saidactuating cam for regulating the movements of said needle holder.

19. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder and an actuatingcam arranged to be reciprocatcd by the needle bar said needle holderbeing pivoted to said cam, and means for oscillating said needle holderand said actuating cam comprising a shaft mounted in and carried by theneedle bar, and means for rotating said shaft through completerotations.

20. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a needle holder and an actuatingcam arranged to be reciprocated by the needle bar said needle holderbeing pivoted to said cam, means for oscillating said needle holder andsaid actuating cam, said holder arranged to hold a needle eccentricallywith respect to its axis of oscillation.

21. A stitch forming mechanism for seW- ing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a shaft rotatably mountedtherein, means for rotating said shaft step by step as the needle barreciprocates, a member eccentrically and rotatably mounted on saidshaft, and needle holding means on said member and arranged to hold saidneedle eccentrically with respect to both said shaft and member.

522. A stitch forming mechanismfor sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a shaft rotatably mountedtherein, means for rotating said shaft step by step as the needle barreciprocates, a member eccentrically and rotatably mounted on saidshaft, needle holding means on said member arranged to hold said needleeccentrically With respect to both said shaft and member, and meanssecured to said needle bar for regulating the movements of said needleholding means.

23. A stitch forming mechanism for seW- ing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a shaft'rotatably mountedtherein, means for rotating said shaft step by step as the needle barreciprocates, a member eccentrically and rotatably mounted on saidshaft, needle holding means on said member arranged to hold said needleeccentrically with respect to both said shaft and member, and a fixedmember secured to said needle bar and having a sliding connec tion Withsaid needle holder for regulating the movements thereof.

24-. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a shaft rotatably mountedtherein, means for rotating said shaft step by step as the needle barreciprocates, a member eccentrically and rotatably mounted on saidshaft, needle holding means on said member arranged to hold said needleeccentrically With respect to both said shaft and member, and anadjustably mounted fixed member secured to said needle bar and having asliding connection with said needle holder for regulating the movementsthereof.

25. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, a shaft rotatably mountedtherein, means for rotating said shaft step by step as the needle barreciprocates, a member eccentrically and rotatably mounted on saidshaft, needle holding means on said member arranged to hold said needleeccentrically with respect to both said shaft and member and a pinsecured to said needle bar and working in a slot of said member forregulating the movements of said needle holder.

26. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising incombination a reciprocating needle bar, and a sleeve .surrounding thesame, one of said members having a plurality of keyways and the otherhaving a key adapted to move in such keyway, means for oscillating saidsleeve back and forth and means for reciprocating said needle bararranged to move same such distance that said key engages and disengagessaid keyways.

27. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising areciprocating needle bar, a needle holder pivotally connected to saidneedle bar and arranged to be reciprocated thereby, means on said needlebar rotating in one direction only for oscillating said needle holder,andmeans for regulating the movements of said needle holder.

28. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising areciprocating needle bar, a needle holder pivotally connected to saidneedle bar and arranged to be reciprocated thereby, means on said needlebar rotating in one direction only for oscillating said needle holder,and means secured to said needle bar for regulating the movements ofsaid needle holder.

29. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising areciprocating needle bar, a needle holder pivotally connected to saidneedle bar and arranged to be reciprocated thereby, means foroscillating said needle holder and means secured to said needle bar forregulating the oscillation of said needle holder, said means being alsoarranged to vary the throw of the needle holder on one of a series ofmovements.

30. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising areciprocating needle bar, a needle holder pivotally connected to saidneedle bar and arranged to be reciprocated thereby, means foroscillating said needle holder, means for regulating the oscillations ofsaid needle holder and means for varying the throw of the needle holderon one of a series of movements.

31. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising areciprocating needle bar, a shaft rotatably mounted therein, means forcompletely rotating said shaft step by step when the needle bar is inits upward position, a needle holder operated by said shaft and bar, andmeans for preventing rotation of the shaft during the lower portion ofits travel.

32. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising a needlebar, means for reciprocating said needle bar, a shaft connected to saidneedle bar, means for intermittently rotating said shaft always in onedirection, and a needle holder eccentrically mounted on said shaft.

33. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising a needlebar, means for reciprocating said needle bar, a shaft connected to saidneedle bar, means for intermittently rotating said shaft always in onedirection, a needle holder pivotally connected to said needle bar andeccentrically mounted on said shaft and means for regulating themovements of said needle holding means.

34. A stitch forming mechanism for sew ing machines comprising a needlebar, means for reciprocating said needle bar, a needle holder, means foroperatively connecting said needle holder to said needle bar,intermittently rotating means for moving said needle holder angularly inrelation to said needle bar to give a series of stitches angularlyrelated to each other, such means being arranged to operate while thematerial is stationary, and feeding means for moving the material afterthe formation of said series of stitches.

35. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising a needlebar, means for reciprocating said needle bar, a needle holder, means foroperativelv connecting said needle holder to said needle bar, intermittently rotating means for moving said needle holder angularly inrelation to said needle bar to give a series of at least three stitchesangularly related to each other, such means being arranged to operatewhile the material is stationary, and feeding means for moving thematerial after the formation of said series of at least three stitches.

36. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising a needlebar, means for reciprocating said needle bar, a needle holder, means foroperatively connecting said needle holder to said needle bar,intermittently rotating means for moving said needle holder angularly inrelation to said needle bar to give a series of at least three unequallyspaced stitches angularly related to each other, such means beingarranged to operate while the material is stationary, and feeding meansfor moving the material after the formation of said series of at leastthree unequally spaced stitches.

87. A stitch forming mechanism for sewing machines comprising a needlebar, means for reciprocating said needle bar, an actuating shaft mountedin said needle bar, means for rotating said actuating shaft a part of arevolution for every reciprocation of the needle bar, such means beingarranged to rotate in one direction only, a needle holder, and means foreccentrically mounting said needle holder on said actuating shaft.

38. A stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle bar, means forreciprocating said. needle bar, a shaft mounted on said needle bar,means for intermittently rotating said shaftalways in the samedirection, a needle holder, and means for eccentrically mounting saidneedle holder on said shaft so as to produce a series of stitches onefor each reciprocation of the needle bar.

39. A stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle bar, means forreciprocating said needle bar, a shaft mounted on said needle bar, meansfor intermittently rotating said shaft always in the same direction, aneedle holder, means for eccentrically mounting said needle holder onsaid shaft so as to produce a series of stitches one for eachreciprocation of the needle bar, means for holding the materialstationary, and means for feeding the material after the series ofstitches have been produced.

40. A stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle bar, means forreciprocating said needle bar, an actuating shaft mounted on said needlebar, a needle holder mounted on said actuating shaft and meanscomprising a rack for intermittently rotating in one direction saidactuating shaft a portion of a revolution for each reciprocation of theneedle bar.

4:1. A stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle bar, means forreciprocating said needle bar, an actuating shaft mounted on said needlebar, a needle holder mounted on said actuating shaft, a guide sleeveconnected to said actuating shaft, and means for rotating said guidesleeve a portion of arevolution for each reciprocation of the needlebar.

42. A stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle bar, means forreciprocating said needle bar, an actuating shaft mounted on said needlebar, a needle holder mounted on said actuating shaft, a guide sleeve andan actuatin sleeve connected to said actuating shaft and means foroscillating and reciprocating said actuating sleeve.

43. A stitch forming mechanism compris ing a needle bar, means forreciprocating said needle bar, an actuating shaft mounted on said needlebar, a guide sleeve connected to said actuating shaft, an actuatingsleeve connected to said guide sleeve, and means for reciprocating andoscillating said actuating. sleeve and a needle holder mounted on saidactuating shaft.

44. A. stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle bar, means forreciprocating said needle bar, an actuating shaft mounted on said needlebar, a guide sleeve connected tosaid actuating shaft, an actuatingsleeve connected to said guide sleeve, and a rack connected to saidreciprocating means for reciprocating and oscillating said actuatingsleeve and a needle holder mounted on said actuating shaft.

45. A stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle bar, means forreciprocating said needle bar, an actuating shaft mounted on said needlebar, a guide sleeve connected to said actuating shaft, means forintermit tently rotating said guide sleeve and means for holding theguide sleeve in position When the same is not being rotated and a needleholder mounted on said actuating shaft.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence oftwo subscribing Witnesses.

JAMES LEATHEM. W'itnesses LEO J. MATTY, FRANK J. CRYSTAL.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents,

Washington. D. C.

